Tuesday, November 07, 2006
Saturday, November 04, 2006
Mikindani, Selous, Zanzibar, Ras Kutani, Home
Day 22 - Saturday 4 Nov - back in the UK
and it was cold.... we had both conveniently forgotten that it is cold in the UK this time of the year (-2C). Retreated to Newton Tony to prepare to get back to "normal" life and update this blog.
Day 21 - Friday 3 Nov - last day at Ras Kutani, going back to the UK
Watching the sun rise around 6am (Andrew had been awake long before that...), unfortunately rather cloudy, but at least no rain. Staff frequently passing outside our room, one of them brought some early morning tea and coffee, which was then removed 10min later by his colleague, sometimes they were just a little too quick.... Breakfast followed by a walk around the lagoon. The "gentle" 45min walk turned out to be a mini mountain track up and down a narrow and slippery path. Soaked by sweat when we finally arrived at the end by the sea, the swimming pool was certainly a welcome cool temperature. Some more
Backgammon battles before packing the final stuff and having lunch. Left by boat at 3pm for the private Ras Kutani air strip. Short boat trip across the lagoon, then walk up the hill (the boat man carrying both our big bags, 30kg together) followed by 10min car trip. No plane visible at 3:30pm, then the heavens opened. Still no plane at 4pm, after many phone calls it eventually arrived 4:45pm. Not sure if it could legitimately be called a passenger plane, 4 seats, one for pilot, one for Nine, 
co-pilot for Andrew and one for luggage! Landed at Dar 5pm and quickly found a representative from Coastal who transferred us to the International Airport, in time for our 6pm flight to Nairobi via Kilimanjaro. Plane from Nairobi absolutely packed, could only get seats with an aisle in between, still better than a middle seat since very limited leg room. Both tried to get some sleep on the plane but either too uncomfortable (Andrew) or neighbours needing the loo all the time (Nina).
Day 20 - Thursday 2 Nov - Ras Kutani
Early morning Nina went on safari across the bed and found Andrew after some time. Sun came out in am so walk on beach then move to new home, the "Hill House" - family bungalow on top of hill, two bedrooms plus communal space with lovely views across bay. Andrew lay in hammock to finish book and was surprised by a probus monkey jumping off the roof of the veranda into a tree by his feet. By the time we had plastered on the sun lotion 
the sun had gone in, followed by the heavens opening for the rest of the day. Our Backgammon is improving still further! Being between books Andrew decided to read the camera manual and found lots of useful features, so useful after we have completed the safari....
Day 19 - Wednesday 1 Nov - Ras Kutani
and it rained....Nina learned Backgammon then proceeded to win more often than was decent! Each had a massage and did some serious damage to books overlooking a rain swept bay from the football field bed.
Day 18 - Tuesday 31 Oct - Selous, Zanzibar and Ras Kutani
During the night the rains arrived - Nina shook Andrew at 6:30am to atch an elephant walk past veranda and eat from the tree outside. Drive to bush runway entertaining - like driving on ice
due to the top mud layer. Russel (driver) managed to have Land Rover travel sideways along the "road" at one point. Flight via Dar to Zanzibar was fine and taxi across island to Pongwe through some markets and villages (tarmac almost all the way). From this point onwards things became a little surreal. On arrival at Pongwe Beach Resort both of us took a big dislike to the place, a little to do with the hotel itself but mostly to do with the management being condescending / conceited and the feeling of being ripped off. We actually both agreed that we would prefer to be back in a tent!! We called Julian at Tanzanian Odyssey in the UK who reacted immediately, calling back 10min later with two alternatives. He asked us to trust us on the choic
e so we did.... 10min later he sent a text message. A private charter flight had been booked for 5pm from Zanzibar to a place called Ras Kutani, could we get the hotel to take us to the airport? It was now 3:30pm and the taxi to the airport would take 1hr! We were packed and gone in 15min. Arrived at the airport to find no evidence of Coastal knowing who we were, but after a phone call it appeared to be sorted, although a slight change in plan, we were to take the 5:15pm scheduled flight to Dar then the private charter to Ras Kutani. 5:15 came and went, 5:30... at 5:45 we became very concerned as these plane could not land as Ras Kutani after dark, we could see ourselves being 
abandoned in Dar. Finally called to the plane 5:50 so sent a quick to text message to Julian in London with our concerns regarding the second leg just as we taxied to the runway. Mid flight the pilot shouted down the plane "are there two here for Ras Kutani?", our hands went up soon followed by a change in course... We landed in Rus Kutani soon after, much to the surprise of the other 11 passengers! The two guys picking us up stood with jaws open as the plane took off - "such big plane - never before" was the comment, then we overheard some comment about "having the VIPs" as we drove off. Ras Kutani beach resort a joy - owned by the same company as Selous Safari Camp. We were shown to the "suite" as Julian had organised and upgrade as apology for Pongwe. Two private sun decks, own private infinity pool and 10ft wide bed... beautiful. Army ants bit us horribly on way to dinner and we had to strip naked in one of the loos next to the restaurant to get them off us and out of our clothes. Dinner and staff both superb. Breakfast in Selous, lunch in Zanzibar and dinner in Ras Kutani, quite a day!
Day 17 - Monday 30 Oct - Selous
Morning game drive with Ludevig - wild dog hunting and later resting under trees. Ludevig did his usual trick and drove straight through the bush to find them, over trees etc, amazing what a Land Rover can cope with! Lion, giraffe, zebra, buffalo and usual antelopes... We saw lion and giraffe "honeymooning" as Ludevig called it. After lunch whilst lying on the bed we watched a giraffe walk past our tent and eat from a tree just off our veranda. Nina surprised it and after staring at us for a while it took off into the bush. Pm boat trip, lots of crocodile and hippo, with the hippos frustrating us as the only yawned when the cameras where either off or pointing in a different 
direction. We got back from the boat trip to find a table set up on our veranda with paraffin lamps and candles, very romantic. Mohammed served each course on a tray carried on his shoulder through the bush from the kitchen, his other hand holding a torch searching for animal eyes! All in all a lovely day, again.
Day 16 - Sunday 29 Oct - Selous
Mmmmm, now this is how to do it. Woke up very early but to the sound of hippos in the water just below our tent. Up and ready by 6:30am for a walking safari with Ludevig our guide (carrying elephant gun and with a second guide at the back - specifically to stop us running if we see lion / leopard / elephant). Learnt lots about tracking, plants and animal behaviour, e.g. ants being provided with thorn nests in the acacia trees. We saw lots of gazelle, impala and waterbuck, and also mongoose, baboon, elephant and zebra. Other guest couple squeaked and almost running away when surprised by "lion" 5m away, tur
ned out to be a hyena. Came out by the lake to find camp staff set up with table, chairs, FULL breakfast, napkins, etc under a tree, so we watched hippo and crocodile from the breakfast table. Lazy rest of the day, during lunch there was a loud rustling in the palm next to the dining deck, which we thought was a baboon, however to our surprise a fish eagle fell out of the palm. We have never seen an eagle look embarrassed until now! After the afternoon drive we came back to the camp to sit around an open fire in the bush followed by a candlelit barbecue dinner by the side of the lake.
Day 15 - Saturday 28 Oct - Dar to Selous
Mix up over bed and breakfast, but stood our ground and got the breakfast.
We don't seem to have a good record with taxis, requested for 7:30am (as per itinerary) but told 7am - waited in taxi until Spanish group joined us at 7:40.... 40mins to airport and flight 8:30!!! As usual no problem in Africa, only slight concern was that the five Spaniards also heading to Selous Safari Camp - very selfish and self-important. Flight 35min in same small propeller plane a
s before, picked up by camp staff - all Spaniards acting as though they owned the country.... extremely amusing when we arrived at camp as owner asked which was Charlesworth group, and asked to stay in car to be taken on to private camp - Spanish faces a picture!!! Beautiful place overlooking lake- private lodge - one of four "tents" in this cam
p. Dumped stuff and then went for boat safari on lake - hippo, giraffe, elephant, croc, zebra, buffalo, birds (not too good a identifying them all...). Back at camp for lunch on deck overlooking lake. We are the only guests in the private camp until tomorrow - really will be private camp with 8+ staff just for us. Rest after lunch and then game drive at 4pm - lion,
hyena, African wild dog, mongoose, impala and on way back at twilight Nina spotted "dark lion" under tree, turned out to be leopard!!! Nina gained huge respect from guide. Saw African wild dogs hunting on way back to camp. Superb dinner, alone in private camp sitting room and dinner terrace - now this is really the life, Andrew feels like Cecil Rhodes!!
Day 14 - Friday 27 Oct - Leaving Mtwara for Dar
Rain overnight and power failure again this morning - breakfast then pack (very hot and humid with no fan due to power failure). Apparently plane due Mtwara at 11:30 then to Pemba then back, so we are due on at 13:30, however delays....... delays so stay by pool and relax, finally get lift to airport with Jethro, after apologies climb aboard twin propeller plane - after tickets written out in longhand, to then be joined by VIP group - apparently ex president of Tanzania, that explains the slightly odd levels of getting through the two room air terminal, although the security guards appeared more interested in putting a sticker on the bag 
rather than actually looking through the contents fully. Arrived safe at Dar then transferred to the Slipway at the Souk, a fair distance from airport and central Dar, for the night. Western frequented place designed as Arabian market / shopping centre but very touristy with al fresco dining selection of five restaurants, almost like a place in south Europe. Room overlooking the sea, plus shipyard and parking spaces, after dinner catch up with BBC World News on TV. Early start tomorrow to go to Selous Safari Camp, hence early to bed.
Day 13 - Thursday 26 Oct - Mikindani / Mtwara
Set alarm for early so that we could walk around Mikindani village before it got too hot, but woken even earlier by the rain - it looks as if the raining season has arrived a little early! After breakfast it had stopped raining so headed off around the village. Amazing to see such abject poverty and yet so many smiling faces. One woman rushing up to Andrew to shake his hand and then running away giggling like a shy girl. The young and the old alike very friendly with many of the young asking to be photographed and then wanting to see their image 
shown on the viewing screen. The houses are tiny and mostly women sitting outside, while then men gather (doing little) by the main road. Makes you feel humble for what we take for granted back home. Back at the Old Boma Andrew was challenged and roundly beaten at backgammon by "Mr" Jethro (as the staff call him). Some question remains if we have a ticket for tomorrow or not, and if we do have it is the plane 11:30 or 13:45? Oh well, we shall adopt the African way and see what will come tomorrow!
Day 21 - Friday 3 Nov - last day at Ras Kutani, going back to the UK
Watching the sun rise around 6am (Andrew had been awake long before that...), unfortunately rather cloudy, but at least no rain. Staff frequently passing outside our room, one of them brought some early morning tea and coffee, which was then removed 10min later by his colleague, sometimes they were just a little too quick.... Breakfast followed by a walk around the lagoon. The "gentle" 45min walk turned out to be a mini mountain track up and down a narrow and slippery path. Soaked by sweat when we finally arrived at the end by the sea, the swimming pool was certainly a welcome cool temperature. Some more
Backgammon battles before packing the final stuff and having lunch. Left by boat at 3pm for the private Ras Kutani air strip. Short boat trip across the lagoon, then walk up the hill (the boat man carrying both our big bags, 30kg together) followed by 10min car trip. No plane visible at 3:30pm, then the heavens opened. Still no plane at 4pm, after many phone calls it eventually arrived 4:45pm. Not sure if it could legitimately be called a passenger plane, 4 seats, one for pilot, one for Nine, 
co-pilot for Andrew and one for luggage! Landed at Dar 5pm and quickly found a representative from Coastal who transferred us to the International Airport, in time for our 6pm flight to Nairobi via Kilimanjaro. Plane from Nairobi absolutely packed, could only get seats with an aisle in between, still better than a middle seat since very limited leg room. Both tried to get some sleep on the plane but either too uncomfortable (Andrew) or neighbours needing the loo all the time (Nina).Day 20 - Thursday 2 Nov - Ras Kutani
Early morning Nina went on safari across the bed and found Andrew after some time. Sun came out in am so walk on beach then move to new home, the "Hill House" - family bungalow on top of hill, two bedrooms plus communal space with lovely views across bay. Andrew lay in hammock to finish book and was surprised by a probus monkey jumping off the roof of the veranda into a tree by his feet. By the time we had plastered on the sun lotion 
the sun had gone in, followed by the heavens opening for the rest of the day. Our Backgammon is improving still further! Being between books Andrew decided to read the camera manual and found lots of useful features, so useful after we have completed the safari....Day 19 - Wednesday 1 Nov - Ras Kutani
and it rained....Nina learned Backgammon then proceeded to win more often than was decent! Each had a massage and did some serious damage to books overlooking a rain swept bay from the football field bed.Day 18 - Tuesday 31 Oct - Selous, Zanzibar and Ras Kutani
During the night the rains arrived - Nina shook Andrew at 6:30am to atch an elephant walk past veranda and eat from the tree outside. Drive to bush runway entertaining - like driving on ice
due to the top mud layer. Russel (driver) managed to have Land Rover travel sideways along the "road" at one point. Flight via Dar to Zanzibar was fine and taxi across island to Pongwe through some markets and villages (tarmac almost all the way). From this point onwards things became a little surreal. On arrival at Pongwe Beach Resort both of us took a big dislike to the place, a little to do with the hotel itself but mostly to do with the management being condescending / conceited and the feeling of being ripped off. We actually both agreed that we would prefer to be back in a tent!! We called Julian at Tanzanian Odyssey in the UK who reacted immediately, calling back 10min later with two alternatives. He asked us to trust us on the choic
e so we did.... 10min later he sent a text message. A private charter flight had been booked for 5pm from Zanzibar to a place called Ras Kutani, could we get the hotel to take us to the airport? It was now 3:30pm and the taxi to the airport would take 1hr! We were packed and gone in 15min. Arrived at the airport to find no evidence of Coastal knowing who we were, but after a phone call it appeared to be sorted, although a slight change in plan, we were to take the 5:15pm scheduled flight to Dar then the private charter to Ras Kutani. 5:15 came and went, 5:30... at 5:45 we became very concerned as these plane could not land as Ras Kutani after dark, we could see ourselves being 
abandoned in Dar. Finally called to the plane 5:50 so sent a quick to text message to Julian in London with our concerns regarding the second leg just as we taxied to the runway. Mid flight the pilot shouted down the plane "are there two here for Ras Kutani?", our hands went up soon followed by a change in course... We landed in Rus Kutani soon after, much to the surprise of the other 11 passengers! The two guys picking us up stood with jaws open as the plane took off - "such big plane - never before" was the comment, then we overheard some comment about "having the VIPs" as we drove off. Ras Kutani beach resort a joy - owned by the same company as Selous Safari Camp. We were shown to the "suite" as Julian had organised and upgrade as apology for Pongwe. Two private sun decks, own private infinity pool and 10ft wide bed... beautiful. Army ants bit us horribly on way to dinner and we had to strip naked in one of the loos next to the restaurant to get them off us and out of our clothes. Dinner and staff both superb. Breakfast in Selous, lunch in Zanzibar and dinner in Ras Kutani, quite a day!
Day 17 - Monday 30 Oct - Selous
Morning game drive with Ludevig - wild dog hunting and later resting under trees. Ludevig did his usual trick and drove straight through the bush to find them, over trees etc, amazing what a Land Rover can cope with! Lion, giraffe, zebra, buffalo and usual antelopes... We saw lion and giraffe "honeymooning" as Ludevig called it. After lunch whilst lying on the bed we watched a giraffe walk past our tent and eat from a tree just off our veranda. Nina surprised it and after staring at us for a while it took off into the bush. Pm boat trip, lots of crocodile and hippo, with the hippos frustrating us as the only yawned when the cameras where either off or pointing in a different 
direction. We got back from the boat trip to find a table set up on our veranda with paraffin lamps and candles, very romantic. Mohammed served each course on a tray carried on his shoulder through the bush from the kitchen, his other hand holding a torch searching for animal eyes! All in all a lovely day, again.Day 16 - Sunday 29 Oct - Selous
Mmmmm, now this is how to do it. Woke up very early but to the sound of hippos in the water just below our tent. Up and ready by 6:30am for a walking safari with Ludevig our guide (carrying elephant gun and with a second guide at the back - specifically to stop us running if we see lion / leopard / elephant). Learnt lots about tracking, plants and animal behaviour, e.g. ants being provided with thorn nests in the acacia trees. We saw lots of gazelle, impala and waterbuck, and also mongoose, baboon, elephant and zebra. Other guest couple squeaked and almost running away when surprised by "lion" 5m away, tur
ned out to be a hyena. Came out by the lake to find camp staff set up with table, chairs, FULL breakfast, napkins, etc under a tree, so we watched hippo and crocodile from the breakfast table. Lazy rest of the day, during lunch there was a loud rustling in the palm next to the dining deck, which we thought was a baboon, however to our surprise a fish eagle fell out of the palm. We have never seen an eagle look embarrassed until now! After the afternoon drive we came back to the camp to sit around an open fire in the bush followed by a candlelit barbecue dinner by the side of the lake.Day 15 - Saturday 28 Oct - Dar to Selous
Mix up over bed and breakfast, but stood our ground and got the breakfast.
We don't seem to have a good record with taxis, requested for 7:30am (as per itinerary) but told 7am - waited in taxi until Spanish group joined us at 7:40.... 40mins to airport and flight 8:30!!! As usual no problem in Africa, only slight concern was that the five Spaniards also heading to Selous Safari Camp - very selfish and self-important. Flight 35min in same small propeller plane a
s before, picked up by camp staff - all Spaniards acting as though they owned the country.... extremely amusing when we arrived at camp as owner asked which was Charlesworth group, and asked to stay in car to be taken on to private camp - Spanish faces a picture!!! Beautiful place overlooking lake- private lodge - one of four "tents" in this cam
p. Dumped stuff and then went for boat safari on lake - hippo, giraffe, elephant, croc, zebra, buffalo, birds (not too good a identifying them all...). Back at camp for lunch on deck overlooking lake. We are the only guests in the private camp until tomorrow - really will be private camp with 8+ staff just for us. Rest after lunch and then game drive at 4pm - lion,
hyena, African wild dog, mongoose, impala and on way back at twilight Nina spotted "dark lion" under tree, turned out to be leopard!!! Nina gained huge respect from guide. Saw African wild dogs hunting on way back to camp. Superb dinner, alone in private camp sitting room and dinner terrace - now this is really the life, Andrew feels like Cecil Rhodes!!Day 14 - Friday 27 Oct - Leaving Mtwara for Dar
Rain overnight and power failure again this morning - breakfast then pack (very hot and humid with no fan due to power failure). Apparently plane due Mtwara at 11:30 then to Pemba then back, so we are due on at 13:30, however delays....... delays so stay by pool and relax, finally get lift to airport with Jethro, after apologies climb aboard twin propeller plane - after tickets written out in longhand, to then be joined by VIP group - apparently ex president of Tanzania, that explains the slightly odd levels of getting through the two room air terminal, although the security guards appeared more interested in putting a sticker on the bag 
rather than actually looking through the contents fully. Arrived safe at Dar then transferred to the Slipway at the Souk, a fair distance from airport and central Dar, for the night. Western frequented place designed as Arabian market / shopping centre but very touristy with al fresco dining selection of five restaurants, almost like a place in south Europe. Room overlooking the sea, plus shipyard and parking spaces, after dinner catch up with BBC World News on TV. Early start tomorrow to go to Selous Safari Camp, hence early to bed.Day 13 - Thursday 26 Oct - Mikindani / Mtwara
Set alarm for early so that we could walk around Mikindani village before it got too hot, but woken even earlier by the rain - it looks as if the raining season has arrived a little early! After breakfast it had stopped raining so headed off around the village. Amazing to see such abject poverty and yet so many smiling faces. One woman rushing up to Andrew to shake his hand and then running away giggling like a shy girl. The young and the old alike very friendly with many of the young asking to be photographed and then wanting to see their image 
shown on the viewing screen. The houses are tiny and mostly women sitting outside, while then men gather (doing little) by the main road. Makes you feel humble for what we take for granted back home. Back at the Old Boma Andrew was challenged and roundly beaten at backgammon by "Mr" Jethro (as the staff call him). Some question remains if we have a ticket for tomorrow or not, and if we do have it is the plane 11:30 or 13:45? Oh well, we shall adopt the African way and see what will come tomorrow!
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